Common Car Stereo Problems, Symptoms and Solutions: Aftermarket Stereos

April 4, 2012

Common Car Stereo Problems, Symptoms and Solutions: Aftermarket Stereos

 

Aftermarket stereos can be a pain if they aren’t functioning properly. Here is a list of your common car stereo problems, symptoms and solutions to help get your stereo up and running!

 

Problem: Can’t Find an Accessory/Ignition Power

Possible Solution:

-          In some cases, car stereos do not come wired with a 12v Accessory/Ignition wire, making an aftermarket radio difficult to install and work properly. Many Jeeps and Chevrolet systems have a data signal wire that carries a very low voltage signal that tells the OEM Head Unit when to turn on, however; it is not compatible with aftermarket units. The easiest way to locate an Accessory/Ignition wire is to find a cigarette lighter that turns on when the car does. Get behind the lighter and tap into the positive wire and connect it to your RED Accessory/Ignition wire on your aftermarket wire harness.

Problem: Head Unit has Power but no Sound

Possible Solution:

-          Many cars have built in amplifiers that require a 12v signal to be sent in order to turn on the Amplifier, most common being Bose, Infinity, and JBL. If your car has any of these systems, check your AMP TURNON signal wire for 12v. Blue/White wire located on Head Unite wire harness.

 

Problem: Installed an Aftermarket Head Unit and Now it Has No Power

Possible Solution:

-          First off, check your wiring. If you have a voltage meter or a test light, test the ground (black), constant 12v (yellow), and accessory 12v (red) wires to make see if you have the correct voltage in the correct wires, as well as a good ground. Constant will always be 12v, whether or not your car is on. Accessory will be 12v only when you turn the key to the “ON” position or the car is running. Make sure to use your ground, as well as another ground (like the frame or body of the car) while testing your constant and accessory to test that you have a good ground.

If you find that one of your power wires or ground wires are not correct, check your vehicle wire diagram and make sure you have the correct corresponding power and ground wires.

-          If you do not have power, and you know for a fact your wiring is correct, check the fuses under the dash or under the hood (depending on your vehicle). Easiest way to locate the correct fuse is to look in the Owner’s Manual and find the fuse number and box location. Your manual should indicate which fuse is for the “Accessory”, “Car Stereo”, or something of that sort. After finding the location of the fuse, pull it and make sure that the leads are not corroded and that the fuse has not been broken or popped.

Problem: Amplifier is in Protection Mode

Possible Solution:

-          If your speakers randomly stopped working and you noticed that your amplifier is in protection mode, there are a few reasons why this might have happened.

  • Most aftermarket amplifiers have a protection from low and high voltage. If your alternator is producing too much power, it will trigger the amplifier’s protection mode. Vice versa, if your battery is low and the amplifier is not receiving a constant 12v, it will enter protection mode.
  • Amplifiers will also enter protection mode if there is a short somewhere. If you have a signal RCA wire that is shorting out, this could be your problem so check to see if your RCAs are in-tact and not shorted. Also, if one of the output channels are shorted out, or you have a blown speaker, many aftermarket amplifiers will enter protection mode. Disconnect all output channels and see if it will return to normal operation.

Problem: Alternator Wine

Possible Solution:

-          If you hear a wining noise that fluctuates with the RPMs of your vehicle, and lessens when the car engine is turned off, you are dealing with Alternator Wine. Alternator Wine is cause by having a bad ground to either your head unit or your speakers’ amplifier. Check your ground wires and find a better place to ground them, e.g. the frame or body of the car.

 

Problem: Headlight Dimming with Aftermarket Subwoofers/Amplifiers

Possible Solution:

-          If you are experiencing headlight dimming when you have your radio turned up with aftermarket amplifiers and subwoofers, your stereo is pulling too much power for the alternator to keep up. There are a few solutions to this problem:

  • Wire in a Capacitor. Although curing headlight dim is far down on the list for a Capacitor’s use, a capacitor might be the solution to your problem. A capacitor is made to curve the spikes in power from the battery to the Amplifier, to create consistent 12v power. Adding a capacitor with the correct farad, in some cases, will curve your amplifier power drawing spikes enough to limit headlight dim. The rule of thumb farad – wattage conversion is 1 farad to every 1000 watts.
  • Upgrade the Alternator. Sometimes OEM alternators don’t generate enough power for your upgraded stereo. Upgrading the alternator to one that can produce enough power to handle your upgraded amplifiers/stereo will solve your headlight dim.
  • Get a Bigger/Better Battery: Sometimes old/cheap batteries can be one of the sources in your headlight dim issue. Replace your battery to a newer, bigger batter to handle more power and load. Although this might not fix the problem it might help.

-       Add an Auxiliary Battery: Wire in a completely separate battery to power just your stereo. This will lessen the load on your engine battery and sometimes will fix your headlight dim.

57 Comments

  • paddy | July 2, 2012 at 9:37 am | Reply

    just bought DEH-P9400BH from states will the radio work here in england some fitters r saying no maybe scaremongering

    • CarAudioNow | August 18, 2012 at 10:52 am | Reply

      Wiring is all the same, pin configuration might be different. But the dash kits and adapting wire harness (eg. Metra) will not adapt

  • rodney kelly | February 13, 2013 at 8:47 am | Reply

    i have jvc kd r321 cd radio in my motorhome i would love it work without going through the ignition switch if you could tell me

    • CarAudioNow | February 13, 2013 at 10:00 am | Reply

      If you take a look at our Aftermarket Car Stereo Wiring Page under our Product & Information Blog Tab, you’ll see that there is a “switched ignition power” wire that’s red, and a “constant battery power” wire that’s yellow. Cut the red wire a few inches from the radio and take the cut wire attached to the radio and tap it into the yellow wire.
      If you do this, you will have to manually turn the radio on and off whenever you want to use it, and it will no longer turn on and off with the vehicle.

  • Eddie Lashley | February 28, 2013 at 8:24 pm | Reply

    I have a jvc kdr300 when I have it hooked up right with constant and accessory when I drive the radio cuts on and off as if its losing power but if I hook both uP to constant it works fine. That is fine for me but alas my wife also drives car and I know she will leave the radio on killing the battery any suggestions? I thought maybe running a line straight from the radio fuse to the accessory wire would that fix it ya think

    • Eddie Lashley | February 28, 2013 at 8:25 pm | Reply

      It is in an 07 Ford focus

    • CarAudioNow | February 28, 2013 at 9:00 pm | Reply

      The easiest way to fix it without digging too deep into troubleshooting is to find the closest cigarette lighter and tap into the 12v wire that powers the lighter. If you have a volt meter check which one is positive. It will have right around 12v when you turn the ignition. Use that as the accessory power (red wire on the back of the unit)

  • Eddie Lashley | February 28, 2013 at 10:33 pm | Reply

    The cigarette lighter is always on, not connected to ignition.

    • CarAudioNow | February 28, 2013 at 11:01 pm | Reply

      Make sure that you’re wires are consistent with the list below. If they are correct, you will need to trace back the accessory wire and find another location to tap into the accessory power to bypass the short. Make sure you check all of your adapting wire harnesses for shorts (if you are using any) by shaking the wire. Another place to tap into is from the ignition itself, but again you will need a volt meter to determine which wire is which.

      2007 Ford Focus Wiring Colors:
      Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Green
      Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Orange/Black
      Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green
      Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange/Black
      Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
      Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
      Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
      Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
      Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
      Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
      Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Black
      Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Black
      Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Red
      Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red
      Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
      Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
      Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
      Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/White
      Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
      Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray

      • Eddie Lashley | March 1, 2013 at 1:30 am | Reply

        Think I might of figured it out gonna try in morning.original radio was around 100 wattts and has a small wire for acc probably 10 or 12 gauge. New radio is 300 Watts so I’m gonna try running a larger gauge. Gonna volt test in morning before I get knee deep in wirering thanks for the help ill let ya know what happens

        • CarAudioNow | March 1, 2013 at 7:59 am | Reply

          That shouldn’t have an effect on the accessory, the accessory wire is essentially just a signal wire. But try it and get back with us either way!

  • JKB | May 7, 2013 at 9:12 pm | Reply

    Wha if you have an older vehicle that did not have a 12v constant? im having a hard time trying to figure out how to wire up a 12v constant and ground it? Any advice please!!!

  • Art | May 8, 2013 at 12:23 pm | Reply

    can I have my dvd screen and my after market stereo in the same power line(cigarette lighter )?

    • CarAudioNow | May 8, 2013 at 12:49 pm | Reply

      The constant power (yellow wire on aftermarket units) should not be ran to the cigarette lighter, however, if you are running two accessories (red wire) off of one cigarette lighter it should not be a problem.

  • Alex | May 30, 2013 at 8:10 am | Reply

    Hi, I have a 2008 saturn vue and just purchased an aftermarket car stereo. When I hook up all of the right wires, the stereo is off when the car is off but when I turn the car on the stereo stays off. I know there is a problem with the ignition switch wire so I believe I have just not connected those wires. the way that everything is connected right now, the stereo is constantly on. The car stereo itself does not have an on/off option. I installed it last night and since then I have just turned the display off. I am worried that it will drain my battery. I want to be able attach the wire to another one that is controlled by the ignition . My cigarette lighter has power going to it even when the car is off so I don’t think that would be an option. Don’t know what else to do:S Please help

    • CarAudioNow | May 30, 2013 at 9:11 am | Reply

      Thank’s for the comment,
      It sounds like you definitely have an accessory (ignition) wire hooked up wrong. See if this helps out at all:

      2008 Saturn Vue Stereo Wiring Diagram

      Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/White
      Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Dark Green
      Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
      Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
      Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Light N/A
      Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: White
      Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: White
      Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
      Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
      Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
      Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
      Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
      Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
      Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
      Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
      Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
      Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
      Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
      Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
      Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

      According to this wiring diagram, you will attach the red wire on the aftermarket car stereo to the green wire on your saturn. The Yellow wire on the car stereo will go to the red/white wire in your car. Let us know if this helps!

  • Alex | May 30, 2013 at 9:21 am | Reply

    Thanks for responding so quickly!.. I used the exact same wiring diagram for my car when I hooked everything up… I am 99% sure that everything is connected the way you said it should be. Unfortunately I do not have access to my car and the wires at this moment. As soon as I am able to do that I will. If the way the wires are hooked up is not the problem, is it possible that there is another issue and/or solution?

    • CarAudioNow | June 1, 2013 at 12:34 pm | Reply

      The other option you have is to purchase a vehicle specific wiring harness that plugs into your existing wires and adapts them to an aftermarket form, making it easy to wire. The wire harness for your 2008 Saturn Vue is here: http://amzn.to/16znQsu

      This will make wiring as easy as putting red to red, yellow to yellow, purple to purple, etc. And, it will plug in/out making it easy and clean if you want to remove your aftermarket stereo and put the original back in. Let us know if this helps!

  • Charlie | June 5, 2013 at 10:57 pm | Reply

    Amp cutting out after volume is about half way up replaced amp, sterio deck, amp wiring

    • CarAudioNow | June 5, 2013 at 11:30 pm | Reply

      Check voltage, if there isn’t enough power it will get put into safety mode. Also the amp should have a light that’s blinking in a particular pattern or color that will be described in the manual for what safety mode it is in.

  • Cory | June 21, 2013 at 11:17 am | Reply

    So I have a 90 chevy lumina and a kenwood KDC-MP345U cd receiver and got a wire harness for it. I wired it and it was all working great until a couple weeks later it fell out of the dash. And I’ve tried redoing the wires but since then it will not power on at all. Do you have any suggestions? I don’t understand what has changed since it fell out if the dash.

  • Cheyenne | June 27, 2013 at 1:59 pm | Reply

    My head unit has power but my speakers do not. Head unit does not have amp of any sort. Curious if the channel in my stereo is disabled.

    • CarAudioNow | June 27, 2013 at 2:04 pm | Reply

      Can you please provide more details on:

      Head Unit Model
      Vehicle Year, Make, Model

      Did you recently install a head unit?

  • chris | June 27, 2013 at 3:26 pm | Reply

    hook up after market radio in my 05 dodge ram then the gage went off and it said no bus what do i do

    • CarAudioNow | June 27, 2013 at 3:32 pm | Reply

      Check and make sure that you’re wiring is correct. Match up the corresponding wires on this page:
      http://caraudionow.com/aftermarket-car-stereo-wire-colors/

      To your 05 ram wire colors:
      Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
      Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Brown/Red
      Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Dark Green
      Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange/Dark Blue
      Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
      Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
      Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Dark Green/Red
      Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located behind the glove box.
      Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
      Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
      Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green
      Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
      Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet
      Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Red
      Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
      Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
      Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow
      Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Light Blue
      Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue/White
      Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Orange

  • kathryn | July 2, 2013 at 11:07 pm | Reply

    I have a sony stereo im trying to put back in my car i have all the wires connected by color but there is a illumination wire i dont know where it goes and when i plug it in theres power to the stereo but it wont do anything any suggestions?

    • CarAudioNow | July 2, 2013 at 11:25 pm | Reply

      Sometimes the illumination feature isn’t available on the stereo and is not used, so I wouldn’t worry about it. Tape it up and make sure that it isn’t exposed.

      As far as the stereo power, does it light up and function correctly but not emit any sound? Or does it not power up at all.

  • kathryn | July 3, 2013 at 1:14 am | Reply

    The screen comes on but it wont do anything else-nothing happens when i hit the source button, its one where the face plate slides down to put cds in it wont eject etc.

  • Justin | July 18, 2013 at 10:01 am | Reply

    I have a 04 mustang GT and I installed a power Acoustic stereo into it yesterday. At first it was playing sound but when i put the unit into the dash the sound cut off and won’t come back on. I checked the wires and the fuses and didnt find anything that looked like it would cause the sound to not play. After I read one of the Problem/Solution things above I saw the AMP TURNON thing my car does have that cable but the stereo didn’t. Whats my next step. FYI its a PTID-8920B.

    • CarAudioNow | July 18, 2013 at 10:14 am | Reply

      Double check the PTID-820B wire harness for a blue/white wire. Most head units (if not all) should have that wire coming from the unit. Connect that blue/white wire to the mustang amp turn on cable. If for some odd reason the head unit does not have this wire, just tie the mustang’s amp turn on wire to the accessory wire (ignition wire).This will turn the amplifier on whenever you turn the key, just like your head unit.

      The other problem that you may have, if your Mustang for sure has an amplifier, is the adapting wire harness that you are using. You should be using the Metra 70-5521 with RCAs for the speaker signal wires. Check the harness and make sure you have the correct one.

  • lucas pyle | August 3, 2013 at 11:59 am | Reply

    I’m having a problam with the after market sterio system i installed yesterday. when i turn on my sterio unit my amps arnt coming on with it. Iv gone over the wiring several times and have found its wired correctly. This isn’t the first time iv installed this system. i pulled it out of the car i wrecked and just inatalled it in a 2003 dodge intrepid. I’m stumped. I’m lost and couldd really use your advice. Iv never had a problam with this equipment . it worked great. thankyou

    • CarAudioNow | August 3, 2013 at 1:08 pm | Reply

      Double check the amp turn on. It will be the blue/white wire coming out of the back of the stereo. That blue/white wire has to be ran all the way to all of the amplifiers. If it is ran correctly then you’ll need to take a volt meter and make sure that there is 12 volts at both the power and amp turn on on the amplifier.

      Hope it helps

  • Jason | September 8, 2013 at 7:56 am | Reply

    Hi I have a BMW 320 e90. I took the standard car stereo out and fitted a Phillips motorised DVD/cd player in. I brought the correct wiring harness to fit my car so I could plug it straight in. I had to also run a yellow wire from the harness block to my fuse box for constant power with a in-line fuse, which is part of it… It was all working great and obviously connect up right and also remembering what I was on so memory was also right. So I fitted it all into the car and when I tried to turn it on… Nothing! So I took it all back out checked for a lose wire or a wire that may have come off and checked all the fuses.
    Everything was still spot on yet its still not turning on. So I tried the standard stereo back in and it works perfectly straight away and the after market still won’t.
    So I tried another head unit just incase and that won’t power up either. I tried my Phillips in a friends car and it works straight away. So my after market head unit is not at fault either.
    I’ve tested the wires with a multi meter and it seems the red wire (ignition) from the original car loom don’t seem to be getting a current from it when touching that and ground. The yellow from the glove box is getting the current as it should… So I’m really stuck now because why is my standard unit working ok yet the after market Philips isn’t. even tho its working fine on another car.
    If there was a problem with any wires surely the original head unit wouldn’t be working? and why was the Phillips working ok to start with but now it isn’t and its not got a fault as its been tested and its ok… Can anyone HELP I’ve spent ages on this.

    • CarAudioNow | September 8, 2013 at 6:50 pm | Reply

      I would suggest bypassing the existing accessory wire and finding another 12V accessory source. If there is no power to the accessory wire, the unit will not turn on. Take your meter and try to find another source for the ignition wire that gives a 12V signal only when you turn the car on. You can try the cigarette lighter/charger, or go directly underneath the steering column and start testing some wires.

      Also, go to http://www.metraonline.com and type in your car specs and make sure that you did purchase the correct adapting wire harness. There are some vehicles that need an adapter specifically for the accessory wire (GM for example). Some accessory wires do not actually send any voltage, just a faint signal, which is not compatible with aftermarket units.

      However, if you find another source for the accessory, it should work. Good luck

  • Jason | September 9, 2013 at 10:39 am | Reply

    Yeah I’d thought about the fag lighter as that goes off when the key does. The only bit I don’t get is why it worked when I very 1st wired it up to test it all. Which makes me think maybe a fuse supplying that red wire has blown or something. For it to work then not work something must have stopped it but I don’t have a full wiring diagram to look it up propper. It’s a BMW 320d 2006 E90. Thanks

    • CarAudioNow | September 9, 2013 at 10:45 am | Reply

      I would assume it’s a fuse as well if that’s the case, I know that in some German cars I’ve found the accessory fuse under the hood instead of in the dash. Have you checked the fuses under the hood as well? If you have access to the manual, look for the list of fuses and locations and check both boxes in both the dash and under the hood.

  • Rajohn | October 4, 2013 at 5:54 am | Reply

    I have 2006 maxima with a pioneer radio in it. When the music is playing through all of the speakers, I get major feedback. It sounds like all of the speakers are blown. So I replaced all of the speakers and I’m still having the same problem. But when you turn the balance all the way to the left, the music sounds normal. When you shift the balance to the right, the feedback problem returns. I’m not sure if I should replace the radio or if I have a wiring issue. I thought it was the factory amp so I bypassed it and ran the speakers directly from the radio. What should I do next?

  • Timmy | October 7, 2013 at 11:24 am | Reply

    I just installed a Power Acoustik PTID-8920B in my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it will take and eject CDs and the touch screen will open and close, but when I open the touch screen nothing appears on the screen. It just stays blank. Where could I have gone wrong?

  • Greg | October 16, 2013 at 8:43 pm | Reply

    I tried Your advice on my amplifier taking it out of safety mode but it doesn’t work so now what do I do

  • zach | October 26, 2013 at 7:35 pm | Reply

    I bought a jvc kd avx2 dvdstereo I hooked it up but it won’t work. All it does is flicker on and off constantly . Does anyobe know how to fix this problem. It will not work

  • Scott | October 31, 2013 at 7:15 am | Reply

    I just installed new (front and rear) speakers (kickers) and deck (pioneer ) in my 2000 KIA Sephia LS. I hooked the speakers up before the deck, and they were working fine with the factory stereo. Now that I have installed the new deck the speakers are distorted. It sounds like the person is far away and there is not any bass really. Now I had to figure out the wiring colors since KIA likes to make their wires different colors than even their manual or diagram has they are. I looked at the KIA harness and the colors of the wires and mix matched what I thought was the right colors together, but obviously I didn’t get it 100% correct. Now KIA has a grounding wire in their harness AND they had one on a post behind. I just ran the grounding to the actual grounding wire instead of in the harness and just left the harness one unused. Q1: Is that okay? I hooked the blue & white wire from the new harness to the Antenna of the KIA wire. Q2: Is that right and/or okay? The only other wire I have unused is the dimmer wire and I’ve read that’s okay, so I’m not too worried about that. My last question would be Q3: Could I have either switched the + & – wires up for the speakers, or maybe switched the F & R wires? Or both? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Thank You for your time!
    Scott

    • CarAudioNow | October 31, 2013 at 11:02 am | Reply

      First thing, I would double check whether your car has an OEM amplifier or not. If it does, it will explain the distortion that you are hearing and you will need a different wire harness that will adapt the RCA outputs of the aftermarket head unit to the stock amplifier speaker signal wires. Or, bypass the amplifier all together. To answer your other questions, as long as the ground wire is attached to ground, it is fine. The Blue/White wire is supposed to be an “Amp Turn-on”, if there is a solid blue wire (coming from the aftermarket head unit), use that as the Power Antenna wire. If you don’t have a blue, then either the accessory (red) or the Blue/White wire will do. But, if your car does come stock with an amplifier, make sure that the Blue/White wire is connected to the corresponding amp turnon wire of the car.

      • Scott | November 5, 2013 at 11:26 pm | Reply

        Thank you very much for your help in this matter. I believe that everything is connected right now. Sounds a whole lot better now!

        Thanks again!

  • Sincere | November 18, 2013 at 11:51 am | Reply

    I bought a Dual XDMA460 aftermarket stereo to go in my 2008 Chevy Malibu also bought a gm adapter harness to do the wiring 08 also now when I plug all matching colors together nothing happens also has two orange wires that did not go with any wire on the stereo. But when I plug the red and yellow stereo works but no volume, and also locks my car system so if you could please help with these corrections and the yellow and red because I’m sure that’s not right. Thanks

    • CarAudioNow | November 18, 2013 at 2:36 pm | Reply

      The orange wires are typically for illumination and dimmer. Sometime the head unit doesn’t have the features to support those two wires (solid orange and an orange/white) so disregard those.
      As far as no volume, your car must have an OEM amplifier, make sure you check the blue/white wire to make sure it is hooked up to the corresponding amp turn on wire on your Malibu.
      If that doesn’t work, double check the compatibility of the wire harness you purchased with the features of your car. http://www.metraonline.com might be a good place to start (type in your vehicle specifics). Sometimes you need a special harness for GMC and Chevrolets that are OnStar enabled, have Bose systems, and etc.

  • andrew | November 22, 2013 at 5:31 pm | Reply

    installed aftermarket radio in 2001 ford focus, while idling works fine go to drive it flashes, get to 30mph is fine, then when i come to a stop it will flash and shut off, then flash until i hit about 30 again then will be fine…..

    • CarAudioNow | November 25, 2013 at 10:39 am | Reply

      Did you purchase an adapting wire harness? Double check that your accessory and constant (Red and Yellow) wires are both connected to the corresponding 12V accessory and 12V constant wires of your car.

  • larry | November 23, 2013 at 9:05 pm | Reply

    Hi I have an 03 chevy tahoe and I just installed a jvc in dash. The problem I’m having is when I turn the car in I get no power to the unit except for the cd eject button. All wires according to spec are in correct configuration, could you point me in the right direction ??

    • CarAudioNow | November 25, 2013 at 10:41 am | Reply

      If you have a volt meter, make sure the red accessory and yellow constant wires have 12V. The accessory should only have 12V when you turn the car on. Constant should have 12V all the time. If that’s not the issue, it may be the unit itself.

  • tricky | November 27, 2013 at 8:52 am | Reply

    got a problem that has been ongoing for a year now ill tell u the story………………..

    I bought a 2011 Hyundai i30 brand new then brought it to a shop to have custom install including having old stereo cut out to fit a new one and first install was pioneer AVH-X8550BT /JL audio 6in splits front / JL audio 6in coax rear / 2x JL audio 12in subs with US audio bezerk 4channle75w per channel and 1000w mono block and new wiring……………………….

    first problem arose fairly quickly the av unit kept melting fusing the buttons on the face of the unit the touch screen still worked and remote still worked as well the av unit was replaced by the shop but sure enough the second one melted as well so they replaced it again with no one being able to find any power faults or even faults with the product ………………..when the third one melted the store said they want to try a different av unit to see if it would happen again so I agreed and they installed Sony XAV701BT av unit and for some strange reason there was no problem with the av unit since but instead speakers have been blowing constantly including the subs the car has been rewired twice and amps have been checked but no faults have been found .
    they now want me to replace the amps but yea I am not confident that I could fix the problem……..

    I am reaching out hoping some one may have any idea what could be causing all this….
    I am technically minded and have certificates in electronics
    and IT but its got me boggled as with all installers involved

    cheers for any help anyone can provide

  • bebeje | December 8, 2013 at 11:53 pm | Reply

    i have pioneer 5450sd. i just found last week that when i turned on the engine. my head unit is off. after a minute it will turned ON. sometimes it will took 3mins to power on.

    But when i put the key in accessories, the power is always on (without engine start)

    please help.
    thanks in advance

  • shamrock | March 22, 2014 at 8:08 am | Reply

    I am installing a dash unit and speakers in a 99 jeep Cherokee sport, I have power and sound but the sound is weak and “hollow”
    Anything come to mind ?

    • CarAudioNow | March 22, 2014 at 8:12 am | Reply

      Find the head unit’s equalizer settings and switch through the presets to see if one is better than the other. If you can’t find one that sounds good, the unit should have a setting to adjust the equalizer itself, you can change the eq or have a professional tune it to your car. Reference your unit’s manual to find the settings

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